1. The Origin of perfume
It seems that perfume has always been equated with France. In French, the word perfume comes from the Latin perfumum. Incense is the act of burning spreading smoke. The meaning of the French word parfum is the spread of a taste formed by air diffusion.
4000 years ago, the Mesopotamians began to use wood soaked in oil to burn eliminate the odor of space, in order to achieve deworming ecism.
It is said that Cleopatra has a secret that she will use 15 kinds of perfume or oils to bathe soak to maintain her fragrance.
If we talk a little more about modern times, let's talk about Hungary. Because of the epidemic situation, Hungarian water was particularly red recently, because more than 90% of it was alcohol, or Volka wine, plus rose water, orange flower water, rosemary essential oil, mint essential oil, lemon essential oil, sweet orange essential oil, etc.
The Queen of Hungary is said to use it during the summer to repel mosquitoes sweep away the feeling of heat. It is said that some diseases of a Hungarian queen were well treated with Hungarian water.
2. The first bottle of perfume
So when did the first bottle of perfume come into being? The correct answer is 1709.
At that time, it was very popular in Europe to distill the aroma of flowers into flower water. In 1709, Giovanni Maria Farina, who lived in Germany, created Eau de Cologne herself because she missed his taste in Italy. Because he lives in Cologne, Germany, he named this bottle Cologne water. This is also the first bottle of perfume in the world.
Portrait of Giovanni Maria Farina
3. Four forms of perfume
Perfume are mainly divided into the following four types. Their difference lies in the difference between the proportion of spices the proportion of alcohol.
Perfume essence
Eau de Parfum Light essence
Eau de Toilette eau de toilette
Eau de Cologne
◾ The alcohol content of essence is generally 70% -80%, the source of spice is as high as 20% -30%. The fragrance can usually last about 8 hours;
◾ The raw materials of light essence fragrance are about 12% -20%, the alcohol content is about 80%, the fragrance retention time is about 4 to 6 hours;
◾ The fragrance source content of eau de toilette is 5% -12%, the alcohol content is more than 85%;
◾ The fragrance source of cologne water only acs for 3% -5%, the alcohol content is also above 85%.
Alcohol has volatility, the higher the alcohol content, the stronger the volatility, the shorter the time the fragrance stays.
4. Front, dle tail tones of perfume
Perfume can be divided into top note, dle note tail key, right? In fact, the principle is very simple. The alcohol contained in perfume will take away flavor molecules in the process of volatilization. The top note with the smallest molecule will be taken away first, while the tail note with the largest molecule will remain for a long time is not easy to disperse.
Let's talk about the common aroma types in the front, dle, back notes
◾ The top note is usually fruity or partially floral, such as lemon, citrus, bergamot, sage, berry lavender, which last for about 10 minutes.
◾ The dle note is the soul keynote of perfume, which will determine the personality of a bottle of perfume. The fragrance lasts about 40 minutes to an hour. The floral, spicy some woody smells, such as rose, ylang, jasmine, pepper, geranium, sage cedar, usually exist in the dle note.
◾ The base note of the final note has the longest fragrance retention time, mainly composed of wood animal aromas, such as salwood, cedar, musk, amber, myrrh, frankincense, etc. You will find that the final notes of many perfume are almost the same, because that's what the final notes can leave behind.
Therefore, when choosing perfume, you should never decide to buy it at the moment of spraying. Only 20 minutes after spraying can dle note, that is, the soul of perfume, be displayed. This is the real flavor style of a perfume.
5. French classic modern perfume
Perfume The best selling perfume in history is CHANEL No ° 5.
As early as 1921, Ernest Beaux, the perfumer, adjusted several bottles of perfume samples. She added acetaldehyde to the sample of No. 5, which will make the perfume taste stronger more obvious, make the perfume more distinctive. If you only smell the taste of acetaldehyde raw materials, it seems that there is a smell of metal rust, but when it is added to perfume, it is similar to the smell of milk after a bath, or the smell of fresh air after rain.
Before that, no one would add acetaldehyde to perfume, so No ° 5 won a big victory as soon as it was launched. Up to now, it is still the best selling perfume series in the world.
Of course, there are all four types of perfume mentioned above in CHANEL No ° 5. The top note penetrates acetaldehyde complex floral fragrance, such as perfume tree flower grass orange flower; dle note is CHANEL's most famous May Rose Grass Jasmine; The final notes leave behind the scent of bourbon vetiver salwood. It is a fragrance that will leave a deep impression on people, as long as you smell it, you will always remember it.
In fact, when it comes to a French br that really started with perfume, Guerlain should be mentioned. This bottle is their 180th anniversary perfume launched in 2008.
But when it comes to Guerlain, the most impressive one is the Emperor's Water made by Mr. Guerlain for Napoleon in 1853. At that time, it would be added to the shower water or directly used to wipe the body, so a very large bottle would be introduced.
6. Six major aroma notes
Perfume can be roughly divided into 6 flavors: floral flavor, citrus flavor, green flavor, citrus moss flavor, oriental flavor oriental flower flavor.
◾ The floral fragrance is very simple comfortable, it can be a single floral fragrance, a composite floral fragrance of several flowers stacked together, or a floral fragrance with added acetaldehyde, which will make the personality very distinct. The floral perfume usually emphasizes the girl's feeling girlish smell.
◾ Citrus flavor refers to the taste of lemon, citrus oranges, bergamot, other citrus fruits. The fragrance retention time will be relatively short, giving people a sense of sportiness vitality. Ocean fragrance, neutral fragrance, etc. are usually made with citrus notes.
◾ The green aroma is actually the taste of trees, seaweed, green grass, green apples. Through the combination of these flavors, it will present a feeling of wilderness fresh summer.
◾ One important flavor in the citrus moss aroma is the bitterness of oak, usually mixed with citrus fruits such as bergamot, musk, jasmine, rose, other tree aromas such as teak pine. It will produce a relatively mature stable taste. If tobacco, leather, etc. are added inside, it will feel very manly cowboy! But with the addition of Yilan, Jasmine, Peony, etc., one will feel very feminine.
◾ Oriental flavor refers not to perfume used by oriental people, but to some spices originating from Central Asia or the East. Salwood, pepper, resin, amber, musk, other common oriental flavor ingredients. The aggressiveness will be slightly clearer.
◾ Dongfang floral fragrance is based on Dongfang fragrance, adding a little floral or herbal fragrance to dilute the spicy stimulating feeling, giving people a mysterious personalized feeling.
The fresher more energetic the taste, the more suitable it will be for use during the day or summer. Intense oriental notes, floral notes, or slightly heavier lingering notes are suitable for use in autumn, winter, or at night. You can use essence at night eau de toilette during the day. When we smell citrus green notes, you will feel that he is a very energetic, neutral, sports loving person...... In a word, perfume is full of personality.
7. How to "wear" perfume?
Perfume is closely combined with your skin. It can be sprayed on the artery positions such as the inside of the wrist, the great artery of the neck, the chest, the artery of the inside of the thigh to enhance fragrance retention. The farther away from your heart, the scent is for others, while the closer to your heart, the scent is for your private person.
When spraying, the distance is about 20-30 centimeters, then gently apply it with both hs wrists, then apply it to a high temperature area behind the ear. Never rub, as friction can damage the carefully designed front, dle, tail notes of the perfumer.